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Cook 'N' With Gas


9. Sauces

A sauce is a liquid which has been thickened by:

- roux - blood - waxy maze

- cornflour - arrowroot - egg yolks

- butter Manie- fecule

Smooth glossy in appearance pouring

Definite in taste coating

Light in texture binding

Roux
White Blond Brown
Béchamel Velouté Espagnole
Béchamel
Mustard Grilling herrings English mustard
Anchovy Fried, poached, boiled Anchovy essence
Egg Poached, boiled fish Eggs
Cheese Fish or veges Cheese
Onion Roast mutton Onions
Soubise Roast mutton Onions (strainer)
Parsley Poached, boiled, fish or veges Chopped parsley
Cream Poached fish & boiled veges Cream or milk
Velouté
Caper Boiled leg of mutton Mutton stk, capers
Supreme Boiled chicken, chaud frod Chick stk – mush leason
Aurore Boiled chicken, eggs, chaudfoid Supreme tomato puree
Mushroom Boiled chicken, sweet breads Supreme, mush, leason
Ivory Boiled chicken Supreme, meat glaze

Demi-glace sauces

Bordelaise

Use

Fried steaks

Shallots, red wine Reduce
Mignoette pepper
Tyme, bay leaf
Demi-glace (marrow)
Chasseur

Use

Fried chops chickens

Steaks

Shallots, white whine Reduce
Mushrooms
Tomato concasse
Demi-glace
Parsley tarragon
Deviled

Use

Grilled fried

Meats – fish

Onions, pepper, mignette cayenne, white wine, vinegar Reduce
Demi-glace
Poivrade

Use

Venison

Mirepoix migonette pepper Reduce
White wine vinegar
Demi-glace
Italian

Fried

Veal or lamb

Duxelle
Parsley, cheroil & tarragon
Ham, tomato
Demi-glace
Brown Onion

Fried

Vienna steak, liver

Onions reduce
Vinegar
Demi-glace
Madera

Brazed ox tongue

Madera wine
Demi-glace
Butter
Piquant

Made up

Disles

Vinegar – shallots Reduce
Demi-glace
Gherkins chapers
Cheveral, tarragon, parsley
Robert

Fried pork -

Chops

Onions, vinegar Reduce
Demi-glace
English mustard
Castor sugar
Charcatiere (Robert) Gherkins
Reform

Use

Lamb cutlets

Mirepoix reduce
Vinegar
Red currant jelly
Pepper corns
Demi-glace
Beetroot, egg white, gherkin Garnish
Mushroom, truffle, tongue
Cold Sauces (Mayonnaise)
Andalouse -

Use: cold meats entrée

Mayon – tomato concasse, diced red permentos

Remoulade –

Use: fried fish entrée or main

Mayon - capers, gherkinds, anchovy essence, parsley, fine herbs

Cambridge –

Use: cold meats entrée

Mayon – chopped anchovies, capers, parsley

Tartare –

Use: fried fish entrée & main

Mayon - capers, gherkins, parsley

Cocktail –

Use: shellfish entrées

Mayon - cream, tomato sauce, Worchester sauce, tomato ketchup, lemon juice

Verte – (Green sauce)

Use: cold trout, salmon entrée

Mayon – watercress, spinach, parsley, tarragon, clervil

Vincent –

Use: fish and shellfish cocktails

Mayon – sieved hand boiled egg yolks, Worchester sauce

Tyrolienne –

Use: cold fresh fish entrée

Mayon – tomato concasse, bay leaf, thyme, fine herbs, shallots.

Cold Sauces (Hollandaise) for fish
Sauce Chantilly

Use: poached fish

Hollandaise with cream

Sauce Noisette

Use: poached trout, salmon

1 part buerre Noisette, 9 part Hollandaise

Sauce Maltaise

Use: continental asparagus

Hollandaise with orange juice

Sauce Bearnaise

Use: grilled fish

Hollandaise with vinegar, egg yolks, tarragon, clervil, pepper corns, white wine

Miscellaneous Sauces
Curry sauce Sauce Kari
Roast gravy Jus Roti
Thickened gravy Jus Lie
Bread sauce Sauce Pain
Apple sauce Sauce Pommes
Canberry sauce Sauce Airelles
Tomato sauce Sauce Tomate
Melted butter Beurre Fondu
Hollandaise sauce Sauce Hollandaise
Béarnaise sauce Sauce Béarnaise
Garnishes
Sauces made from a Demi-Glace
Sauce Reduction Garnish Menu Example
Robert WW2V Mustard Cote de Porc Robert
Reforme WW Julienne of beetroot, truffle, tongue, gherkins Cotelette d’ agreau Reforme
Piquante WW2V Gherkins, capers Kromeskis piquant
Charcatiere WW2V Mustard, julienne of gherkins Sauté depore Charcatiere
Diable WW2V Cayenne Pepper Poulet grille Diable
Chasseur WW Mushroom, tomato, tarragon Poukt sauté Chasseur
Butter Sauces
Hollandaise
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Hollandaise Choufleur Hollandaise
Maltaise Orange zest, juice Asperges Maltaise
Moussline Whipped cream Darne de Saumon Sauce Moussline
Noisette Brown butter Fillet de trute Noisette
Béarnaise
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Béarnaise Tarragon Chateaubriand Sauce Béarnaise
Choron Tomato Tournedos grille Sauce Choron
Foyot Meat glaze Entrecote Foyot
Paloise Mint Noisette d’ agreau Paloise
Compounded Butter
Butter Garnish Menu example
Burre Maitre d’ hotel Parsley, garlic, Worchester sauce, lemon juice Entrecote Matre d’ hotel
Beure Colbert Chicken glaze Sole Colbert
Beurre Anchois Anchovy Paupiette de Sole Beurre d’ Anchoise
Café de Paris Mixture of herbs, 2 spices & meat glaze Entrecote Café de Paris
Demi Glace Sauces with red wine and/or vinegar
Sauce Reduction Garnish Menu example
Bordelaise RW Bone Marrow Entrecote Bordelaise
Provrade RW & V Sauté chevreuil Provrade
Perigieux RW Truffles Rable de lievre Perigieux
Genevoise RW Anchovy Essence Darne de Samon Genevoise
Demi Glace Sauces with liquor added
Sauce Addition Garnish Menu example
Madere Madaira Jambon braise au Madere
Porto Port wine Canard Savage au Porto
Sherry Sherry Escalop de veau au Sherry
Sauces made from Veloute
Sauces made from Sauce Supreme
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Aux Champignons Mushrooms Supreme de Poularde aux Champignons
Hongroise Paprika, onion Poulet poche a l’hongroise
Ivoire Meat glace Supreme de poule a l’Ivoire
Chaude-froide Aspic cream Escapole de Dinde en Chaude-froide
Aurore Tomato Supreme de Volaille a la’Aurore
Albafera Meat glace, pimento butter Poulet poche Albufera
Sauces made from Sauce vin blanc
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Normande Mushroom, oyster juice, parsley Filet de Sole Normande
Persil Parsley Darne de groper Persil
Aux Huitres Oysters Poupiette de Soleaux Huitres
Diplomate Mushroom, oyster, lobster, truffle Delice de Sole Diplomate
Thermidor Mustard, parsley L’Homard Thermidor
Cardinal Truffle, tomato, cayenne, lobster, butter Languste Cardinal
Sauces made from Bechamel
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Morney Cheese, egg yolk Fillet de Sole Waleska
Soubise Onion puree Gigot de Mouton roti, Sauce Soubise
A l’onion Shredded onion Oeuf a la tripe
Moutarde Mustard Herring grille, Sauce Moutarde
Persil Parsley Cotes de bettes Persil
A l’Oeuf Egg Cabilland poche, S a laoeuf
Crème Cream Chouxfleur a la creme
Sauces made from Sauce Allemande
(White roux veal stock)
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Aux Champignons Mushrooms Escalope de veau aux champignons
Poulette Parsley Tete de veau Poulette
Villeroy Ham, truffle Grenadin de veau Villeroy
Grenadin – is a thick escallope or thin steak
Mayonnaise
Sauce Garnish Menu example
Russe Lobster, caviar, mustard, béchamel Languste a la Russe
Cocktail Tomato, Worchester, lemon juice, Tabasco Cocktail de Fruitdemer
Tartare Capers, gherkins, parsley, fine herbs Oeuf poche a la tartare
Remolarde Capers, gherkins, anchovy, fine herbs Gorgon de Cabillard Remolande
Gibriche Tartare, chopped egg Filet de Sole frit Sauce Gibriche
Vert Jus of spinach, parsley Asperges Sauce vert
Vincent ½ vert, ½ tartare Beouf bouilli, S-Vincent
Adalouse Tomato, pimento Oeuf dur a l’ Andalouse

Simple sauces may be divided into the following groups:

  1. Those made with a roux, which include :

a. Household sauces : White and Brown.

b. Superior Sauces : Bechamel and Veloute (White) and Espagnole (Brown).

  1. Those thickened with cornflour, arrowroot, flour, custard powder, rice flour etc.
  2. Cooked egg and custard sauces.
  3. Cold Sauces.
  4. Unclassified Sauces.

Foundation White Sauce

Proportion

For a pouring sauce : 12.5g fat, 12.5g flour, 300ml Liquid.

For a coating sauce : 25g fat, 25g Flour, 300 ml liquid.

Basic Recipe

Pouring sauce Coating Sauce

12.5g Flour 25g Flour

12.5g margarine or dripping 25g margarine or dripping

(according to use) (according to use)

300ml Liquid 300ml Liquid

The liquid depends on the kind of food with which the sauce is to be served.

For meat use half milk and half meat liquor or stock.

For fish use half milk half fish stock.

For vegetables use half milk and half vegetable liquor or all vegetable liquor.

For sweets use milk, milk and water or water.

The fat is melted and the flour added and cooked. This mixture is called a roux. It may be white or brown. A white roux is used for white sauces.

Method.

  1. Melt the fat in a saucepan.
  2. Add the flour, mix smoothly and cook over a gentle heat, stirring all the time..
  3. Cook for 2 or 3 mins., still stirring. Do not allow to brown.
  4. Remove from the heat and add the liquid, a little at a time, to the roux until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Stir all the time. If the liquid is
    not added gradually a lumpy sauce will result.
  5. Add the remaining liquid and mix thoroughly.
  6. Return to the heat, bring to the boil, stirring round and across the saucepan all the time.
  7. Continue boiling and stirring 4 to 5 mins. to cook the flour thoroughly.

If the boiling is not continued the sauce will be:

a. raw in flavour

b. incorrect consistency

c. dull instead of glossy.

  1. Season carefully.

To Avoid and/or Overcome Mistakes

  1. If the sauce is allowed to stand over a gentle heat, once the sauce is made it will become thin owing to continued cooking. To save time at the last
    minute, the roux may be made beforehand and the liquid added, and then be allowed to stand and cooked up immediately before served.
  2. If the sauce is allowed to stand after cooking, a skin forms on the top due to evaporation. To minimise this, cover the surface closely with a piece
    paper dipped in cold water. Place lid on saucepan.
  3. If the sauce is too thick, dilute with a little liquid and bring to the boil again stirring all the time.
  4. If the sauce is too thin, reduce by boiling rapidly, stirring all the time.
  5. If a sauce has become lumpy through wrong methods, stir vigorously with a whisk.

Foundation Brown Sauce

Basic Recipe

12.5g Fat 1 small piece carrot

12.5g Flour 1 onion

12.5g stock or water

Method

  1. Prepare the vegetables and slice them.
  2. Melt the fat and fry the vegetables until brown.
  3. Add the flour, cook all slowly together until the roux becomes a good brown colour.
  4. Remove from the heat and add the liquid a little at a time, mixing smoothly with the roux.
  5. Return to the heat and bring to the boil, stirring round and across the saucepan all the time.
  6. Allow to simmer for about 30 mins.
  7. Skim, strain and reheat.

 

Sauces Thickened with Cornflour, etc.

Basic Recipe

Cornflour, arrowroot, rice flour or custard powder : 12.5g

Liquid : 300ml (water, milk and water or milk)

Sugar : 12.5g or

Seasoning ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper.

Method

1. Mix the cornflour, etc., to a thin paste with a little of the cold liquid.

2. Put the remaining liquid on to boil.

3. Pour on to the thin paste, stirring all over, all the time.

4. Return to the saucepan, bring to the boil, stirring all the time round and across the saucepan.

5. Boil 2 to 3 mins., stirring continuously. Add seasoning or sweetening.

 

Cooked Egg Sauces

Basic Recipe

1 egg 1 dessertspn. Sugar

300ml Milk ½ tsp. vanilla flavouring (optional)

Method

1. Heat the milk.

2. beat the egg and pour the hot milk over gradually.

3. Return to gentle heat, and stir until custard thickens (Do not boil).

4. Add sugar.

Coffee Custard Sauce

Use 150ml strong coffee and 150ml milk, or 300ml milk less 1 tbsp. and 1 tbsp. coffee essence. Continue as egg custard.

 

COLD SAUCES

Boiled Salad Dressing

1 tsp. flour 1 tsp. sugar 75mls vinegar

1 tsp dry mustard 1 egg 1 tbsp salad oil

¼ tsp salt 150mls water

1. Mix all the dry together and mix to a smooth paste with a little of the water.

2. Mix the remainder of the water with the vinegar and bring to the boil.

3. Pour gradually on to the thickening, stirring all the time.

4. Put back into the saucepan, bring to the boil, and cook for 3 to 4 mins, stirring all the time.

5. Beat in the salad oil gradually and then the whisked egg.

6. Cook until the mixture thickens. Do not boil once the egg is added.

7. Use as required.

Cream Salad Dressing

1 hard-boiled egg ⅛ tsp pepper 1 tsp sugar

¼ tsp salt 1 dessertsp vinegar 2 tbsp cream or

½ tsp dry mustard or lemon juice evaporated milk

1. Sieve the yolk and add the dry ingredients.

2. Add the cream or evaporated milk gradually.

3. Add the vinegar or lemon juice very gradually.

Note: Chop the egg white and use to decorate the salad.

French Dressing

1 tbsp salad oil ¼ tsp salt

1 dessertsp vinegar ⅛ tsp pepper

1. Mix together oil and seasonings.

2. Work in the vinegar very gradually, stirring all the time until it is smoothly blended.

Mayonnaise Sauce

1 yolk of egg 2 tsp vinegar

150ml salad oil ½ tsp dry mustard

1. Mix together the yolk of egg, mustard, and seasonings in a bowl.

2. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring or whisking all the time. To do this

a. Put the oil into a bottle.

b. Cut two very small wedges in the cork, one on either side. This allows the air to enter and the oil to ooze through drop by drop.

3. Wrap a damp cloth round the bowl during the process to keep the egg yolk and oil cool.

4. When thick and smooth, add the vinegar very gradually.

Tartare Sauce

150ml mayonnaise 1/1 tsp chopped parsley

1 tsp chopped gherkins 1 tsp chopped capers.

Add all ingredients to the mayonnaise and mix thoroughly.

Horseradish Sauce

37.5g horseradish ½ tsp. dry mustard

75mls cream or 2 tbsp. 1 tbsp. vinegar

evaporated milk 1 tsp. sugar

¼ tsp. salt

1. Wash and scrape the horseradish.

2. Mix all dry ingredients together.

3. Add the vinegar gradually.

4. Stir slowly into the slightly whipped cream.

Mint Sauce

150ml vinegar 2 tbsp. boiling water

3 heaped tbsp. chopped mint 1 tbsp. sugar

pinch salt

1. Wash the mint and remove from the stalks.

2. Chop very finely with the sugar. (This aids the chopping)

3. Put into basin and pour on the boiling water. (this dissolves the sugar and keeps the mint a good colour).

4. When cool, add the sugar.

 

Unclassified Sauces

Apple Sauce

450g Apples 1 tbsp. sugar

1 tbsp water 12.5g margarine

few drops lemon juice

1. Peel, core and cut up the apples.

2. Cook with the water and margarine until soft.

3. Add sugar and lemon juice.

4. Beat until smooth.

Bread Sauce

300ml Milk 1 onion stuck with cloves

12.5g margarine few drops lemon juice

1 tbsp. water.

1. Simmer the onion and mace with the milk for about half and hour.

2. Put the breadcrumbs, margarine and seasoning into a bowl.

3. Strain the flavoured milk over the crumbs.

4. Stand aside and reheat when required.

IMPORTANT POINTS IN SAUCE MAKING

What to do Reason
Foundation Sauces
1. Blend the fat and flour carefully and do not brown the flour for white sauce. The sauce will be greasy if roux is not well blended and the colour will be spoilt if flour is browned.
2. Brown the flour well for brown sauce, but do not over brown. If not brown enough the sauce will be pale and unappetising in appearance. If over browned it will have a burnt, unpleasant flavour.
3.Add the liquid off the heat, and very gradually. If added on the heat or not sufficiently gradually, the sauce will be lumpy.
4. Cook thoroughly. The flour must be well cooked or the flavour will be spoilt.
5. Season Carefully. To draw out the flavours and make appetising.
Egg Sauces
1. Cook gently. Do not allow to boil once the egg is added. The egg will curdle.
2. If the egg curdles, put the saucepan into cold water and whisk the custard. To reduce heat as quickly as possible.
Cold Sauces
1. Mayonnaise

Add the oil to the egg yolk drop by drop, whisking all the time.

The whisking splits the oil into minute gloublues, and the gradual mixing causes the yolk and the oil to become evenly and well
incorporated.
3. If the mixture curdles owing to too rapid addition of oil :-

a. add a few drops of water.

b. If ineffective, add the mixture drop by drop to another yolk.

The addition of another yolk evens up the mixture and, by very careful addition of the oil, and continual whisking, the yolk and the oil
can become evenly incorporated.

Application of basic recipes

Method 1 (based on 300ml liquid)

Kind of Sauce Seasoning or sweetening Addition to Foundation Additional Directions
White Sauces:
Anchovy None 1 tsp. anchovy essence, ¼ tsp. lemon juice or vinegar. Make sauce ; add essence and vinegar or lemon juice last.
Brain ½ tsp salt, shake pepper. Brains from calf or sheep’s head. Blanch and remove skin. Cook in stock about 30 mins. Chop and add to made sauce.
Caper ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper 1 dessertsp. Capers, 1 tsp. caper vinegar. Make white sauce and add chopped capers and vinegar. Add to sauce when made.
Cheese ½ tsp. salt, pinch cayenne. 1 Tbsp. dry finely grated cheese. Add to sauce when made.
Dutch (or hollandaise) ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper. 1 egg. Add beaten egg and lemon juice before serving. Do not boil after egg is added.
Egg ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper. 1 hard boiled egg. Chop egg and add to made sauce.
Mustard ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper. 1 tsp. dry mustard, ½ tsp. vinegar. Add dry mustard to flour. Make sauce and add vinegar last.
Onion ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper. 1 large onion. Blanch and cook onion and chop finely. Use half milk and half onion liquor to make up 300ml liquid. Add onion to made sauce.
Parsley ½ tsp. salt, shake pepper. 1 dessertsp. Parsley. Wash, dry and chop parsley finely. Add to sauce immediately before serving.
Shrimp Shake of pepper 150mL pickled shrimps, 2-3 drops anchovy essence to colour or a few drops carmine colouring. Pick shrimps and chop roughly. Add essence or colouring. If anchovy essence is used, very little salt may be required. If colouring used,
add ½ tsp. salt.
White (sweet) 1 dessertspn. Sugar. None None
White (savoury) ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper. None None
Béchamel ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper. 1 small carrot, ½ small turnip, 1 small onion stuck with clove. Simmer vegetables in the milk for about ½ hr. Strain and use liquid and make as white sauce.
Veloute ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper. White stock (veal or chicken), ½ tsp lemon juice, a few parsley stalks. Use white stock in place of milk. Fry the parsley stalks with the fat before adding flour. Proceed as for White Sauce. Add seasoning and
lemon juice. Simmer about 10 mins. Strain and serve.
Brown Sauces:
Brown ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper. None None
Curry None 2 tsp. curry powder, 1 tsp curry paste, 1 tbsp. Sour apple or rhubarb. Fry the powder, paste and sour fruit with the vegetables.
Espagnole ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp. pepper. 50g ham or bacon, 2 tomatoes, 1 tbsp. sherry (if desired) Use brown stock. Cut up ham or bacon, and sauté. Continue as for Brown Sauce. Add herbs, tomatoes, seasoning etc., after stock has been
added. Simmer together about 30 mins. Strain and serve.

Method 2

Kind of Sauce Addition or Variation of Basic Recipe Additional Directions
Sweet Sauces:
Arrowroot Strip of lemon rind or bay leaf, etc. Heat the milk with the flavouring. Make as foundation sauce. If fruit juice or water is used, boil until clear.
Custard (plain) As basic recipe, using custard powder.
Custard (egg, Economical) ½ egg (1 egg per 600ml) Make as basic recipe. Cool and add beaten egg, return to saucepan to heat until egg thickens. Do not boil. Add sugar.
Chocolate 50g Chocolate or 2 tsp. cocoa, ½ tsp. vanilla. Use milk and water or all water. If cocoa is used reduce cornflour by 2 tsp. If chocolate is used, dissolve in the liquid. Add sugar and essence last.

Use basic recipe. Reduce liquid by 1 tbsp. Add essence last.

Coffee 1 tbsp. coffee essence Use basic recipe. Reduce liquid by 1 tbsp. Add essence last.
Jam or Syrup 1 tbsp. jam or syrup, tsp lemon juice. If jam sauce, a few drops or colouring. Use water. Boil together jam (or syrup) and sugar in the water 6-7 mins. Strain, add to blended cornflour or arrowroot. Continue as basic recipe. Add
lemon juice last. Note: Arrowroot makes a clearer sauce.
Lemon Rind and juice 1 lemon. Shred lemon rind and cook in water 10-15 mins. Add to blended cornflour and finish as basic recipe. Add sugar and lemon juice.
Marmalade 1 tbsp. marmalade, 2 tsp. lemon juice. Make as jam sauce but do not strain.
Orange Rind and juice of 1 orange, 2 tsp. orange juice. Make as lemon sauce.
White (Sweet) Use flour Make as basic recipe.
White (Savoury) Use flour and half milk and half meat stock or fish stock or vegetable liquor or water, according to use. ½ tsp. dry mustard, ⅛ tsp pepper. Make as basic recipe. This method does not make such a rich sauce as foundation white sauce.
Savoury Sauces:
Horseradish 3 tbsp. grated horseradish, ½ tsp dry mustard, ¼ tsp salt, 1 tbsp vinegar. 1. Scrub, peel and grate horseradish.

2. Mix together mustard, sugar and salt.

3. Make 300ml cornflour sauce.

4. Add vinegar gradually, and lastly horseradish.

Note:
Cream may be used instead of cornflour sauce.

Tomato 300ml tinned tomatoes or 225g fresh tomatoes, 1 tsp sugar, ½ tsp. salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 25g bacon or ham rinds, 1 onion, 1 small carrot,
12.5g margarine. Use stock or water.
1. Prepare onion and carrot and cut into slices.

2. Heat margarine and bacon rinds in saucepan.

3. “Sweat” onion and carrot in fat.

4. Add tomatoes and liquid.

5. Simmer about 45 mins.

6. Rub through sieve.

7. Add to blended cornflour and make as cornflour sauce.

8. Season carefully and add sugar.