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13. Mousse and Stuffing

Mousse

French means “foam”, lightest of all pâtés with the addition of aspic. Method similar to bavonois.

Main Ingredient

Puree of cooked veg Pureed and added to aspic & thin veloute (I oz Roux to 600mL) or piquant sauce, lightened with soft whipped cream and set in mould
previously lined and decorated
poultry
ham
tongue
chicken liver
fish or shell fish

Basic Recipe for all types
serves 8-12 (Charlotte Mould) x1

225g appropriate cooked puree 150mL Veloute or Piquant

150mL aspic 300mL double cream soft peak

Seasoning, colouring, flavours as desired

Removal of all skin and gristle finally mixed and passed through sieve. Add hot sauce and incorporate aspic, season, additives, eg. Tongue, salmon. Reduce
temp quickly, when cold prior to setting fold in cream to mould. Allow ½ hour to well set and chill.

Cold mousse and mousselines

Points to watch

1. Don’t have apparel to cold, as mix will turn lumpy.

2. If cream is over whipped the mousse will eat dry.

3. Any seasoning, colouring, additives must be done at liquid stage

Mousse lines

Similar to above with a higher content of cream. So delicate usually made in individual mould portions and eaten from container.

Service

Usually accompanied with a contrast of texture, eg. Melba toast.

Pates and Terrines

Started life as preserving the produce of Aulem pigs, hams, salted, sausages.

Pate – pie pastry covered.

Terrine – dish forcemeat is cooked in (pure flavour).

Rillettes – cuts of meat cooked and sealed in fat in stone jar potted meats

Parfait

Guillotines – forcemeat cooked in skin of animal.

Terrines are cooked au bain marie & allowed to rest before cutting.

Pate – when cooked are allowed to settle and loose their initial heat, filled with a high gelatinous stock of appropriate flavour to seal & preserve,
moist.

Terrines – when cooked & cold, they may be coated with melted lard, chaud foid, aspic, or aspic sauce.

Les farces et les panades

Farces binding & extending agents

Pates, terrines, mousses, mousselines, quenelles

1. Viandes crus - raw meat base

Bitoks - beef

Hamburgers - beef

Porjarski - veil or chicken

Kotbuler - meatballs, sausage meat

Keftedes, lamb pork, veil without onion

2. Viandes cuits - cooked meats

Cromesquis - usually chicken

Croquettes or cotellettes - chicken, ham, and fish

Fricandelles – usually beef

Durham cutlets

Rissoles

Cold mousses

3. Legumes au vegetables – usually used as stuffing.

Duxelles - chestnuts

Mie de pain - white breadcrumbs, used as a stuffing, eg. Tyme for bone shoulder, paupiettes etc.

Farce afine

Finer forcemeats,

From a raw meat base with egg whites and cream

1lB – finely minced and sieved meat/fish/poultry.

1lB / 3/4 pt double cream 1 pint cream = 20 fl oz

2 egg whites

White pepper, nutmeg, salt

Everything must be kept well chilled

Usages small quenelles – for soups, fish, entrees

Large quenelles – as fish or entree dishes in their own right

Hot mousses

Souffles

Mousselines

As a filling or stuffing, eg. Turbane, chaitruse, paupiettes

In menu terminology, the predominant flavour of the forcemeat is indicated on the menu.

Kynell – Anglo-Saxon word meaning to pound or grind meat/fish flesh.

Les Panadas

Au Mie de pain – ½ lB bread crumbs, 300mL cream

- Usages - veil forcemeats - pojorskis

A la pommes de terre – pommes a la niege, dry cook, sieved

- Usages - ficadelles

Au riz – moist cooked rice, like risotto, 3:1 ratio, sieved

- Usages - large meat or fish quenelles

A la furine – choux paste without eggs, tough mix.

- Usages - pates

A la frangipane – pastry cream without sugar

- Usages – fine fish or game, chicken farces or pates.

Note: all panadas should be well chilled before adding forcemeats.

In forcemeats panadas, protein in flesh is usually enough to hold mix, a panada is a leason or binding agent,

Veryings: taste, texture, moistness and extender.

Menu examples of quenelles

.

Preparation of Porjarskis & bitoks

Simple forcemeat raw viandes crus

A combination of finely minced, good quality raw meat normally bound with rusk or bread panada Mie de Pain well seasoned, aromates & herbs

Pojarski

Originally cote de veace hachee, was a cutlet with meat removed, minced and bound with butter and seasoning reshaped on the bone.

Cotelettes a la porjaski Menu example:

Veil porjaski - smitaine

Pork “onion sour cream sauce”

Mie de pain – cream panada pass over cooked porjaski

Butter, egg, chopped parsley

Salt, pepper, nutmeg

Pane, anglaise, macaroni stir fry

Bitoks – bitoks bitki bitouque = made from beef

Shaped like small tournedos 2oz

Kefadels – are Bitok made from lamb pork or viel.

- minced beef

- minced pork

- mie de pain panada

- cream

- onions

- salt

- white pepper nutmeg

- egg

Menu example: “bitoks be boeuf a la russe

Cooked bitok, deglace with cream ass demi glace pass

Serve separate in tambal (drumb)

On top of bitoks goes onion saute, pomme saute “separate”

Farces binding and extending agentsFarce forcemeat: the French word means practical joke and demonstrates the common origin of eating & display. It was common practice to
play a joke on guests by filling a small birch, hen or fish with novel type stuffing or farce. It was much later that the development of
forcemeat was improved and made more appetising to enhance the flavour of the article being stuffed. Eventually the art of making
forcemeats became so high that it was brought to the fore and became dishes in their own right in the form of pates, terrines mousses,
mousselines and quenelles.

There are three basic types of forcemeat

1: Viandes crus – raw meat base from which dishes like bitok (beef), hamburgers (beef), porjaski (veil or chicken), keftedes (lamb, pork,
veil without onion), sausage meat and Kotbuller (meat balls) are made.

2: Viandes cuits – cooked meat base from which dishes like kromeski (usually chicken) croquettes or cotelettes (chicken, ham, fish)
fricandelles (usually beef), Durham Cutlets, rissoles and cold mousses are made.

3: legumes ou – veg usually used as a stuffing, duxelles, chestnuts

4: mir de pain – white bread crumbs used as a stuffing, eg: tyme stuffing for boned shoulder lambpoutiettes, etc.

In this country we would possibly not consider the final category as forcemeat, because of their make-up, and stuffing is a more
appropriate description.

Finer forcemeats – from a basic raw meat base, forcemeat with the addition of eggwhites and enriched with double cream, a more delicate
forcemeat is made.

Usages: - small quenelles – garnish for soups, fish and curtain entrée dished

- large quenelles – as fish or entrée dishes in their own right.

- mousses

- souffles

- mousselines

- as a filling or stuffing for many purposes, i.e. Turbane, Charteruse poupiettes

Pates and terrines

The most fascinating thing about pates and terrines is in spite of theit well earned reputation for elegance and sophistication they
started life more as preserving the produce of Auteur slaughtering of pigs. The hams would be salted, sausages made and smoked, meaty
morsels made into ritletes, pates, terrines, sealed with lard and put away for future enjoyment around Christmas and long winter months.

The difference between these dishes is confusing, not only when transposed from one country to another, but even a national level. Terrines
are often called pates and vice versa, and terrines are often referred to as galantines and pafaits.

By setting out a basic criteria for each category, it should help to identify them more easily. Basically it should be simple, pate means
pie, pate means pastry, therefore any forcemeat covered with pastry is a pie or pate, where as terrines take the name of the dish or
forcemeat it is cooked in, without pastry and without anything to detract from the pure flavour of the filling. The simple terrine is
placed into terrines lined with fat or foil, to protect and keep moist, sealed and baked standing in a Bain Marie of water.

Neither pate or terrine were invented with health conscious in mind, and because of the pates higher calorie rating and the trend to
Nouvelle Cuisine and healthier, eating pates have tended to go out of fashion and terrines in the numerous varieties ahs been whole
heartedly adopted to the new cuisine style.

Pates or terrines may be coarse or finely textured or of a combination of both, dependant on taste. When cooked pates are allowed to settle
and lose their initial heat. They are then filled with a high gelatinous stock of appropriate flavour to seal and preserve and to keep the
filling moist. Terrines cooked and cold may be sealed with a coating of melted lard, chaud froied or aspic filling or aspic sauce.

6 lb prepared chicken livers

1 lb shredded onions

2 oz crushed garlic 1 pt water

2 lb lard ½ lb butter panade a pate

2oz salt 12 oz strong flour a choux

¼ oz white pepper 12 eggs

2 bay leafs

2 spring thyme

Method

Melt lard in 2 black frying pans, add onion, garlic, herbs & fry lightly, (more raw than cooked). Remove herbs, blend then stroke
through a fine sieve, place choux paste panada into mixing bowl & cool, add above apparel and blend thoroughly, incorporate cream and
seasoning, pour ladel into prepaireed containers, place bay leaf and tyme on top, cover with oiled paper and seal with foil (holes in foil
seal to let out steam).

Cook au Bain Marie in mod oven for 1hr 20min.

Allow to cool and set 24hrs before cutting.

Terrine de legumes – most terrines use a mousseline de colaille as the main constituent, although an acceptable cheese base can be used,
for 2lb terrine, 4 x 6oz chicken supremes afterprocessing = 1lb flesh

After processing = 1 lb flesh

2-3 egg whites

¾ pt double cream

a variety of veg can be blanched

Mousseline to be divided into 3

1. Nature White

2. Flavoured and coloured with tomatoes Pink

3. Flavoured and coloured with a duxelle Brown

Alternative Cheese Base

Rillettes cuts of meat cooked and sealed in fat in stone jar.

Cold Mousses and Mousselines, les Mousses et Mousselines frod.

Mousse: in French the word means “foam”, an apt description for the lightest of all pates. An unusual form of pate with aspic added, the
method of production similar to bavarois. The main ingredient could be puree of vegetables, poultry, ham, tongue, chicken liver, fish or
shellfish, cooked added to a thin veloute of appropriate flavour, using (1oz roux to a pint) or pinquant sauce set with aspic, lightened
with soft whipped cream and set in a mould of previously chimised lined with aspic and decorated.

Basic recipe for all types – serves 9-12 (charlotte mould) dome shaped x1

½ lb of appropriate cooked puree

¼ pt tin veloute or pinquant sharp savory sauce

¼ pt aspic

½ pt whipping or double cream (soft peak)

Seasoning, colouring & flavours as desired.

Removal of skin, bone and gristle, finely mince the rub through a fine sieve, add to hot sauce & incorporate hot aspic, season, (at
this stage some mousses may require the addition of some edible colour) ie. Tongue, salmon.

Reduce temp. quickly, when cold & prior to setting quickly fold in cream & immediately mould, allow ½ hr to well set and chill.

Points to Watch

1: Do not have the appareil to cold as the mixture will turn lumpy through the action of the aspic jelly setting quickly.

2: If the cream is whipped to tight the mousse will eat dry.

3: Any seasoning & colouring has to be done at the liquid stage.

Mousselines

Similar to above with higher content of cream. So delicate usually made in individual mould positions and eaten from the container –
unmoulded.