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MEAT
& GAME
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MEAT
Boning
To bone a leg of Mutton
To bone a shoulder of Mutton
To bone a loin or breast of
Mutton
METHODS OF COOKING MEAT
Roasting or Baking
Basting (if not over frequent)
:-
Time per 450g (1lb)
Pot Roast Pot roast is roasting in a stewpan. To heat an oven for the sole purpose of cooking a very small joint is extravagant and unnecessary. Small joints – rump, steak, loin and best end of neck and small birds – may be roasted in a stewpan with a well-fitting lid.
Roast Heart
Calf’s
heart about 1 to 1½ hrs. Bullock’s
heart about 1½ to 2 hrs. Hearts may be stewed or braised. Roast Chicken
Accompaniments to Roast Meat Roast Beef (Plain): Thin gravy, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish
sauce, mustard. Roast Mutton (Plain): Thin gravy, red currant or cranberry
jelly with leg, loin, neck. Onion sauce with shoulder. Roast Lamb: Thin gravy, mint sauce. Roast Veal: Grilled ham or bacon. Lemon, veal forcemeat
stuffing or forcemeat balls fried or baked in the oven and used as a garnish.
Thick gravy. Roast Pork: Sage and onion stuffing (see p. 137). Apple
sauce (see p. 49). Thick gravy. Fowl: Forcemeat stuffing, bread sauce, bacon rolls,
thick gravy.
Gravy for Roast Meat
Thin Gravy
Thick Gravy 12.5g Fat, 12.5g flour, to 300ml liquid
(stock or vegetable water).
GRILLING
Meats suitable for grilling are: Fillet and rump steaks,
chops, cutlets, kidneys and sausages.
Preparation
Chops and
Cutlets. Remove superfluous fat and also the bone from a chump chop. Skewer
it into a neat shape. Kidneys.
Wash thoroughly. Dry and remove skin and fat. Split in two without cutting
right through. Sausages.
Prick with fork. 2. Brush over the prepared food with olive oil or melted fat to prevent charring.
Method
Do not prick
the meat. 5. Cook for the time required, turning frequently during the grilling.
Accompaniments to Grilled Meat
Maitre d’hotel butter Potatoes cut into ribbons or chips and fried. Grilled tomatoes (cut into halves before grilling) or
mushrooms.
Boiling
Method
Salt Meat
Boiled ham or bacon
Boiled tongue
Time per 450g
Accompaniments to Boiled Meat
Fresh Boiled Meat: Carrot, turnip, onion, parsley or
caper sauce either coating the meat or served separately. Salt Meat: Carrot, turnip and onion cooked with the
meat; small suet dumplings, added about half an hour before the meat is
cooked; gravy from the liquor in which the meat was cooked.
BRAISING
Meat suitable for braising is generally lean and deficient
in fat. This deficiency is supplied by larding, i.e. inserting small strips
or “lardoons” of fat, or by “barding”, which is covering the breast or
surface with fat bacon. Larding bacon is sold expressly for this purpose,
but any firm, fat bacon will do.
The braise consists of –
Method
Suitable meat : small boned, stuffed joints, poultry,
game, fillets, cutlets, sweetbreads, rabbit, rump steak (stuffed).
Pork/Porc
Must be cooked due to trickanosos.
·
Lean flesh pale pink.
·
Fat white, firm, smooth not excessive.
·
Bones small, fine, pinkish.
·
Skin smooth.
Whole pig
may be pickled except head, trotters. Preserve
in brine = brinometer 55 – 60O
Brine 100 water 125 Slickpeter Cold 1.5kg salt
POULTRY
1. Poussin 4-6 weeks 2. Poulet
de Grain Young fattened bird,
3-4 months 3. Poulet
Reine Fully grown, tender,
prime bird 4. Poularde
Large fully grown prime bird. 5. Chapon Carstrated – fattened 6. Poule Old hen
JOINTS
English French Legs – Drum
Stick Cuisse – Pilon de Cuisse Thigh Grass
de Cuisse Wing Aile Breast Blanc Winglet Aileron Carcass Carcasse
Supreme wing
and ½ breast off chicken.
BEEF
Meat 18-21 months Storage
It must hang
to become tender – the lower the temperature the longer it can be hung. 1oC
for 14 days.
Hanging
·
Flesh red and marbled.
·
Fat firm, brittle in texture, white in colour.
1. Fore rib
Roast, Braise 2. Mid Rib Roast, braise 3. Chuck
Rib Stew, braise 4. Stickling
Piece Stew, braise 5. Brisket Boiling 6. Plate Stew 7. Shank Stew, broth, consome
1. Shine Stock, consome 2. Topside Braise, stew 2nd roast. 3. Thick
flank Braise, stew 4. Silverside
Boiling, pickling 5. Rump Roast, grill, braise, shallow
fry. 6. Sirloin Roast, grill, braise, shallow
fry. 7. Wing Rib
Roast, grill, fry. 8. Thin flank
Stew 9. Fillet Roast, grill, shallow frying.
BEEF BOUF
Weight 90 kg per side Fore Quarter 3 joints
Stewing, braising Hind Quarter 9 joints
Roasting, frying better quality Quality Lean bright red meat Fat firm and brittle,
creamy white in colour and odourless. Depending on food
– yellow if feed on grass – carritine. Storage 1oC on Hooks Steak etc. on trays,
changed daily because of blood. Hanging Tenderising Improves flavour How Rigar Mortis – 14 days
– bacteria breaks it down, adds flavour and tenderises it. Best to buy 18 – 21 months
old.
Steak (Biftecks)
Porterhouse
t bone or (Entrecote or Sirloin) Fillet grilled
shallow fried Steak Taretare
Raw chopped Plank good quality cooked
on board Carpet bag fillet or sirloin Stuffed with oysters Bermuda Fillet or sirloin Stuffed with banana Club steak Steak fromfomib Point Cut from rump.
CUTS FROM
SADDLE AND BEST END
Loin R Bestend or
rack R Breast S,B Noisette G, Sf Madallion G, Sf Chop G, Sf Cutlet G, Sf Chump Chop G, S French double
cutlet G,Sf Fillet P, G Crown Roast
R
LAMB/MUTTON
Lamb = 1
year and under
Quality Flesh Bright Red Bone Pink Porious Fat Thin, evenly distributed Smell
Cooking 20 min per ½ kg + 20 min over
150 – 200oC Dry Heat Roast, grill, shallow fry, spit
roast Moist Heat Boil, stew, braise à
Breaks collective tissue.
Baste Improves
flavour Stops drying Stops shrinking Produces
nice looking meat
Glaze Always place on a trivet Mint Jelly Marmalade Red Jelly
Method Score meat)
½ hour before cooked glaze Makes it
more attractive Sweetens
the meat.
Accompliments
Lamb Jus Roti Water vress, red current jelly,
mint Mutton Jus Roti Soubise Sauce Herbs Thyme and Rosemary It is traditional
to serve pommes Boulangene. Start cooking
at a high heat to seal the meat.
Fat from
sheep are used for 2nd class dripping.
1. Leg le gigot Roast (boil mutton) 2. Loin la longe Roast, grill, fry 3. Best end
Lar Carre Roast, grill, fry 4. Middle
neck le Cou Stew 5. Scrag
end le Cou Broth 6. Shoulder
l’Epeyue Roast, stew 7. Breast la portrine Stew Roasting.
VEAL
1. Head le tete 2. Scrag le cou 3. Neck end
les basses cotes 4. Best End
le carre 5. Chump
rump le quasi 6. Loin la longe 7. Leg le cuissol 8. Breast la poitnne 9. Shoulder
l’e’paule 10. Knuckle
le jarret
1. Thick
flank Thick Flank legite a la noix 2. Topside cusion la noix 3. Silver
side undercushion lessoux noix 4. Osso Bucco
Bone Plentiful 5. Shin bones
Knuckel le jarret
Cuissot – Leg
Weights of main joints prepared
Cushion
Veal Veau
Age 3-4 months Approx 50kg Feed On milk and hen eggs Flesh Should eb white with greenish
tinge If reddish it means
its been fed on solids or graze. Smell Of milk
If killed
too young its very gelatineous. Originally
from Holland.
Ossobucco
Classical Dish – (Italy) = Knuckle cut
Veal Information
Small Cuts
of Veal
Escalope
– Cut form cushion, loin or fillet weight 75 – 125g. Mock escalope – Good trimmings, minced with egg whites shaped and
paneed. Fritto Piccata
or Escalopine – Miniature escalope weight 25 –
50g. Grenadin
- Thick triangular wedge cut across
the grain from under cushion, larded and braised 175g. Fricandeau
– Large thick wedge cut from the cushion 1 ½ - 2 inches thick (with grain)
braised a la Cuilliere. 1.2kg Cotes and
Cotelettes – Chops and cutlets on the bone – grilled or sautéed.
225 – 350g. Paupiettes
– Thin slices (esculope) 50g filled with 75g forcemeat braised. Tendons
– Breast with ends of ribs, braised. 150 – 175g.
A la Cuilliere – To cut with a spoon (Well Done)
Noisettes
– Medallions cut from loin or breast end usually sautéed. 125g. Osso bucco
– Cut across the leg, knuckle usually braised. Weight 350g – 450g. Rouelle
– Round a straight across the top of the leg with bone about 1 inch thick
braised 1.5kg (2 – 3
lb) Pojarski
– Origionally Cote de Veau hachee, meat removal from veal cutlet chopped.
Butter seasonings reshaped on the bone.
Cooking proceduresThe meat
being so lean and lacked in flavour is usually landed or barded and flavoured
with herbs and accompianied with strong sauces.
FRYING
Method – Shallow Fat Frying
Method – Deep Fat Frying
Note: Food
coated in batter should be removed with a skimmer or slice.
STEAMING
Meat and poultry are more tender if steamed rather than
boiled, but it takes a longer time. Steaming is suitable for chops, cutlets
and boiling fowl.
Chops and Cutlets
Steamed Fowl
STEWING
Preparation Of meat
b. If not
so coarse, leave whole if desired. 3. Prepare the vegetables and cut into even sized smallish pieces ; chop or slice onions.
Method 1
Method 2 : Thickened White Stews or Fricassee of veal,
chicken, rabbit.
Sauce : 25g fat, 25g flour 300ml stock or milk.
Method 3 Thickened Brown Stews.
450g meat to 25g flour, 25g fat to 600ml liquid. Vegetable to flavour – carrot, turnip, onion. 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper.
STEWING : APPLICATION OF BASIC METHODS
Method 1
Method 2
Method 3
METHODS OF CUTTING AND COOKING MEAT
GAME
PoultryStorage Fresh Polutry must be hung by legs in weel vetilated
room for 24 hours. The innards are not removed until required.
Quality
·
The breast should be plump.
·
The vent end of the breast bone must be pliable.
·
Flesh should be firm.
·
The skin to be white, unbroken with faint bluish tinge.
·
The legs smooth with small scales and spurs.
GAME FEATHERED OR FURRED
Storage
·
Must be hung to become tender and develop flavour.
·
Hanging depend on age, type, condition and temperature.
·
Game birds are not plucked or drown before hanging.
·
Venison and hair are hung with their skins on.
·
Game must be hung in well ventilated, dry, cold storeroom.
·
The ears of hares and rabbits should tear easily. Served with feet still on (nails clipped)
Birds
·
The beak should break easily.
·
The breast plumage is soft.
·
The breast should be plump.
·
Quill feathers should be pointed not rounded.
·
The legs should be smooth.
French le Gibier Derives from the French word giberier – to hunt therefore
game can be defined as the flesh of the wild free roaming animals and
birds that are edible to humans. Although this definition is still correct many types
of game are now produced domestically, reared like poultry, e.g. quail
and guinea fowl. Game is protected by legislation, which is designed
to preserve needs, i.e. protect during the mating and breading periods,
and restrict the hunting to curtain months of the year. Each type of game
has a close season during which they must not be hunted, shot or sold.
Shops or Wholesalers who sell fleshed game must be licensed.
Game is broken down into 2 categories or classifications:-
As it is difficult to determine the age of wild birds,
they are not controllable, like the rearing of poultry, therefore game
birds vary in age, weight and size. Activity game birds spend a lot of
time on the ground resting and feeding, they have to be on the move frequently
so legs become well muscle tight, well developed and tough! Fat, as stated above, because of their existence, there
is very little fat on game birds, with exception of wild fowl. The flesh
is very dry and usually needs banding. Usually when roasting, only the
breast meat is served, the legs being reserved for terrines, pàtes, etc.
Hanging (see accompanying chart) This tends to increase the typical gamy taste and to
tenderise the meat. Hanging needs to be carried out, in a well ventilated
cold room, which does not have to be refrigerated. The game birds are
hung the neck with feathers still attached. Hanging time will depend on
a number of factors. Conditions regarding hanging:
La Grouse – 12th August – 10th
December The most commonly used is the red grouse, which is shot on the Yorkshire & Scottish Moor. It is a small reddish brown bird speckled with black feathers and white down feathers on its lower legs. Red eye wattles, male more decorative.
Black Grouse – 20th August – 10th
December Le Coq De Bruyene (Black Grouse) found in Scotland,
Wales and the North of England. The male is recognised by its blue black
plumage and distinctive white lyre shaped tail.
Partridge fr le prerdreau – 1st September
– 1st February There are several varieties, the most common being the
common and red legged varieties both found throughout the country. Both
have brown plumage, the red leg having rich chestnut buns across a blue
grey breast. The common has a dark horse shoe on its breast.
Pheasant le faisan – 1st October – 1st
February One of the most common of game birds found throughout
the UK. The male is recognised by its copper coloured plumage and multi
coloured head. Its ringed neck, a excessively long tail, (usually 18 inches),
the female is dull mottled brown with a tail half the length.
Quail la Caille (protected) Originally imported from Egypt and India, they are now
reared extensively on farms in this country. The birds resemble young
partridge with their sandy speckled brown plumage. Usually sold oven ready
boxed of 12. Their eggs are also extensively sold, again usually in boxes
of 12, approx cost £1.80.
Snipe fr la becassine – 12th August – 31st
January Several varieties are eaten, the common Jack and Great
Snipes. Small wading birds with streaked plumage and long straight beak.
As the beak is used for trussing the head is left intact.
Woodcock la becasse – 1st September – 31st
January Similar to a snipe but larger. Has a slight curve in
its beak, recognised by the russet coloured plumage and darker colouring
on its head and under parts, again the beak used for trussing. These 2 wading birds differ in preparation to the other
game birds described. These types of birds do not have a gall bladder,
so are cooked undrawn with the exception of the gizzard is removed.
Pratical larder 9th January Preparation of pheasants for roasting, then turning
into Salmis de faisan. Preparation and roasting of partridge then turning into
a Chartrease de perdreau.
Wild duck underdone Grouse underdone Partridge just done Pheasant just done Plover just
done Quail just
done Snipe just
done Woodcock just done
Menu examples:
Chantruse “en Pedreau”, moulded
& decorated with veg, fine farce. Meat bound in glaze, pouched au
bain Marie.
Accompaniment for Roast game:
croute de mie de pain “frut” Farce
a gratin Jus
roti slightly greasy Pommes
chip Cresson
“water cress” Panier
de citron Sauce
pain Fry
: white bread crumbs golden
/ butter Farce a gratin
may be placed croutes de Coeur, on set into croute demie de pain.
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