Know your fish

A work in progress providing an alphabetical list of common and alternative names of most of the common New Zealand marine and freshwater fish regarded as edible. Compiled by Heritage Foods director Mike Bradstock

Many fish names are confusing because they are applied to several different kinds of fish, or different names are used between one region and another. Other names used are imprecise (e.g. “cod”) or inappropriate, eg. the fish most often called “herring” is in fact a type of mullet. And it gets more complicated than that.

‘flat’ -- fish that have a flattish body with both eyes on the same side, eg. flounder. The NZ species of flatfish are usually prepared whole or in long thin fillets.
‘long’ -- length more than twice the height, eg. blue cod, gurnard, eel. These yield long, comparatively thick fillets and round steaks.
‘round’ -- length not more than twice the height of the body, eg. snapper, tarakihi. Fish of this basic shape tend to produce wide, not particularly thick fillets, and when cut across the whole body into steaks these tend to be oval or elliptical in shape.

Size is classified as follows:
small -- under 1 kg, eg. flounder, blue maomao
medium -- usually up to 10 kg, eg. tarakihi, snapper. Some fish included in this category grow larger but they are usually under 10 kg.
large -- usually up to 50 kg, eg. groper, kingfish, school shark. Again, some of these fish exceptionally may grow bigger. Fish in this category are not usually displayed or sold whole.
very large -- usually more than 50 kg. The main fish in this category are marlins. swordfish, and certain kinds of shark.

abalone See paua.

albacore A dark blue tuna distinguished from other tunas by its long pectoral fins, which are about half as long as the body. A heavy, plump “round” medium-sized tuna. Premium quality with dark flesh that turns white when cooked or canned. Small albacore are known by commercial fishermen as ‘cokes’.

alfonsino A ‘round’ red deep-sea fish with large eyes; to 60 cm and 2 kg. Often displayed whole in shop windows; looks rather like a big goldfish. Firm white flesh, medium fat. Often sold whole at a low price. Highly recommended.

anchovy An 8-12 cm silvery fish with dark flesh, not caught commercially but very similar to the imported ones. If you can obtain them, salted and dried they are very good for recipes that call for small whole fish.

angelfish, black A small black reef fish living in shallow northern waters. Best left strictly alone as a scenic attraction.

Australian salmon see kahawai

baby groper A name sometimes used in Wellington fish shops for bluenose and small groper.

barracouta a ‘long’ silvery fish up to a metre long and 3 kg with long sharp teeth. Darkish low-fat flesh, sometimes infested with worms. Often canned.

bass. See groper
black flounder. See flounder.
black snapper. See parore
blackfish. See parore
bloater see pilchard

blue cod A thick-set, ‘long’ grey-blue to dark grey fish with rough scales. White flesh, low fat, suitable for all cooking methods. Heads excellent for soup. A premium fish in the south. Highly recommended.

blue mackerel Also called English or Pacific mackerel or slimey mackerel. A ‘long’ plump tuna-like fish reaching 45 cm and 2 kg. Silvery below with a pattern of wavy blue-green lines above. Dark flesh with a high fat content, but rather coarse and dense. This fish is closely related to the mackerel sold in cans. Usually very cheap; best smoked.

blue maomao A small ‘round’ blue-grey fish found in the north. Fine flake, medium fat flesh, excellent for frying or grilling whole. Recommended.

blue moki A ‘round’ fish reaching 80 cm and more than 10 kg, blue-grey above and silver below, more common in the south. Firm medium-fat flesh; an under-rated, often very cheap fish. Recommended, especially if you buy them whole: take fillets off for frying and use the head and backbone for fish soup. Fillets sometimes are patchily grey-and-white, but this is not a sign there is anything wrong: they turn evenly white when cooked.

blue warehou. See warehou.

blue whiting. Also called southern blue whiting or poutassou. A ‘long” small grey-bluish deep-sea fish caught in waters south of New Zealand; an abundant resource that is becoming more widely available. Usually has been frozen at sea.White, delicate flesh with low fat; average quality.

bluenose A dark blue to grey or brownish, deep-sea ‘round’ fish with a large rounded head. Closely related to warehou but usually larger -- to 1 m and more than 20 kg. Medium texture, succulent and delicious. Very highly recommended. Bluenose heads are also my first choice for fish soup. Sometimes sold as groper; also known as bonita, wall-eye, stone eye, deep-sea trevalla and sometimes, baby groper.

boof, boof-head see monkfish
bonita see bluenose
bonito see skipjack tuna

bream An ill-defined term: Snapper is a member of the bream family, and the derived name brim (q.v.) is sometimes used for this. Rig (q.v.) is sometimes sold as “deep-sea bream” but is actually a kind of dogfish. See also ray’s bream. The name bream is probably also used occasionally for other species.

brill See turbot.

brim. Name used in Nelson/Marlborough for snapper, especially small ones. Do not believe anyone who tries to say there is any difference other than size.

broadbill The usual name used in New Zealand for swordfish, a large to very large, blue to brown fish with a distinctive sword. Superficially like marlin but not closely related to them; distinguyish by having a flat “sword” rather than a spike. Premium species with large flakes of firm white flesh, ideal for grilling.

bronze-whaler shark see shark

butterfish A ‘long’, dark green, rather thick-set fish with streaming long fins and green bones, hence the name greenbone which is used in the south. Very delicate, fine, rather soft white flesh; good for baking and frying. This fish feeds on seaweed, so has a high iodine content.

cardinal fish A moderate-sized dark brown deepwater fish sometimes caught with orange roughy. Xxxxx

clam. Although this is an American name for bivalve shellfish living in sand, like pipi, tuatua, cockle, etc, it is a useful general term. Such shellfish are often collectively called pipis, but this name best refers to a particular type.

cockle Usually refers to the rather rounded, rough-textured bivalve shellfish that lives intertidally in muddy sand in sheltered harbours and estuaries throughout the country. Purple and white inside the shell; has a small “foot” or tongue. For two reasons this is arguably our best clam: firstly because of its fine flavour and secondly because the foot, which tends to toughen when cooked, is small compared to that of other clams.

cod A real catch-all name -- includes blue cod, deepsea cod, red cod, and rock cod, and is also used by some fishmongers as a ‘non-committal’ name for other fish.

coke see albacore

conger eel A dark blue or grey marine eel growing to more than 10 kg. Not as oily as freshwater eel, therefore not as good, but still good, very firm white flesh. Cheap and under-rated; good smoked or for soup. A smaller species, the northern conger, with a pinkish hue and larger eyes, occurs in warmer NZ waters and is also very good.

crab see rock crab, swimming crab, spider crab

crayfish The most commonly used name for what is commercially known as rock lobster. Two species, packhorse crayfish (also called smooth-tailed or green rock lobster, occasionally growing up to 20 kg), and red or spiny crayfish (to 8 kg). The latter is far more abundant. Rock lobsters seen on sale are typically 500g to 5 kg in weight, and often sold after they have been cooked, which turns them uniformly reddish-orange. Both kinds are excellent eating, but a thriving export market has put the price beyond most people.

creamfish Also called leatherjacket. Sold headed, gutted and skinned, with small yellow fins along the edges and the tail still on. Very tasty, firm white flesh, good for frying -- and cheap. Though a small fish, about 150g when prepared, they are not full of small bones and in fact quite manageable. Recommended. To prepare leatherjackets you have caught yourself, or bought whole, see p.00.

cucumber fish see smelt
dab. See flounder.
deep-sea bream See rig.

deep-sea cod An ill-defined term, but most often applied to a fish that is also called ribaldo: a true cod with good-quality firm white flesh, mainly caught in the south.

deep-sea dory. See oreo dory

deep-sea perch. A name sometimes used for orange roughy, especially when it is being exported.. More accurately it could sometimes be applied to sea perch (q.v.)

deep-sea trevalla See bluenose.

dog, dogi, doggie variations of “dogfish”, usually referring to rig.
dogfish Various types of small shark-like fishes. See rig (the most popular and best type for eating), spiky dogfish (a markedly inferior species) and northern spiky dogfish.

dory. See john dory, oreo dory. The name dory in a shop window could mean either of these, or possibly the less common lookdown dory, mirror dory or silver dory -- all good-quality, white-fleshed medium-fat fish.

drummer xxx

eel (freshwater) Two species: short-finned and longfinned, which are very similar, with firm white flesh of high fat content and excellent smoked. Highly recommended, though a hassle to prepare (slimy, with tough skin). Do not believe the myth that eels from sluggish rivers have a muddy taste.

eel see freshwater eel, conger eel, blind eel

escolar xxx

elephant fish A silvery or silvery-brown fish with a short “trunk” for a mouth; closely related to the dogfishes and sharks and one of the best eating of the group. Not common in the north. Often used for fish and chips; also called silver trumpeter.

English hake A ‘long’ grey fish up to a metre long and 6 kg. Much less common than formerly: a victim of the mad 1970s overfishing. Flesh moist, rather soft and delicate. Recommended. The name hake is often, inaccurately, used for gemfish.

English mackerel. See blue mackerel

filefish a name occasionally used for creamfish.

flake A fishmonger’s name for school shark

flatfish. See flounder, sole and turbot.

flinger. See sea perch

flounder Four types. Greenback flounder and yellowbelly flounder are very alike. They vary in colour from green to grey; yellowbelly flounder are by far the more common, and recognised by often having spots and yellowish colour on the underside. These are the best species for eating. The sand flounder or dab is distinctively diamond-shaped, brown to greenish grey, and probably the next best to eat. The black or river flounder is grey with red spots, lives mainly in brackish or fresh water, and is the least esteemed. All grow to about 40 cm and may reach perhaps 600g in weight. They tend to vary in condition -- look critically at them and select those that are thicker in the middle, rather than the “flatter” ones. Moist delicate flesh, ideal for frying. Sole and turbot (q.v.) are other types of flatfish.

flyingfish xxx

frostfish A slender, silvery fish up to 2m long and 3 kg. Not very common. So-called because it is said to be often washed up on frosty mornings. Delicate white flesh. Recommended.

garfish Also called piper. Slender silvery fish about 25 cm long with a beak-like lower jaw. Excellent firm white flesh. Best fried whole. Highly recommended.

gemfish Also called southern kingfish, silver kingfish, and (incorrectly) southern hake or hake. A ‘long’ silvery fish, bluish above, up to a metre long and 6 kg. Has smooth skin and two distinct lines running along the side, one near the top and one in the middle. One of the finest fish in the sea, with moist, white, high-fat, succulent flesh, perfect for smoking or baking. Often sold smoked, but be sure it has not just been “painted” with smoke flavouring (this process is sometimes fraudulently called “kippering”.) Not usually available fresh; best bought in the headed and gutted form which has been frozen at sea -- it keeps well this way, and can be filleted after thawing with little loss of quality. Very highly recommended.

ghost shark xxx

globefish also called pufferfish. Poisonous, though related species in japan, called fugu, are a famous delicacy.

goatfish see red mullet
golden snapper see red snapper
grandaddy, grandaddy groper see sea perch
grandfather hapuka see sea perch
granite trout see marblefish
Greenback flounder. See flounder.
greenbone see butterfish
grenadier see hoki

grey mullet Small (usually less than 1 kg) silvery fish, blueish or greenish grey above, with a thick body and broad head and snout. Large scales in rows. Firm white flesh, high in fat. Excellent smoked or baked.

groper. See hapuka.

gurnard Same as red gurnard. An orange-coloured fish, white underneath, with a bony pointed head, leg-like “feelers” and beautifully coloured fins that spread out like butterfly wings. Firm, low-fat, fine-flake flesh with a lovely fresh smell. This once underrated fish is becoming more popular. Recommended. See also spotted gurnard

hagfish Also called blind eel, and a number of vulgar names

hake. See gemfish and English hake. This name is confusing, as it most often is applied to gemfish and ocasionally to hoki, but strictly speaking the only true hake is English hake. Anything sold as “smoked hake” is most probably gemfish.

hapuka The names hapuka (or hapuku) and groper are used interchangeably. A big thick-set grey fish, white below with a large head and undershot jaw, usually sold as fillets or steaks. Firm, white flesh with a high fat content, suitable for all cooking methods. Groper heads are excellent for soup (though the copious oil should be skimmed off), or for eating steamed or smoked. If you have the good fortune to see groper cheeks on sale, buy them and fry them for a wonderful, succulent treat. Smoked roe, if the whole roe is larger than your hand, is usually groper roe. Two other fish also sold as hapuka/groper are bluenose (sometimes called “baby” groper) and bass, a close relative of the groper but larger and from deeper water.

herring See yellow-eyed mullet

Highlander. See sea perch

hoki Also called blue hake and sometimes whiting. A slender silvery-blue fish whose body tapers back to a sharp point rather than a tail; to 1.2 metres and 3 kg. If you see hoki whole, they often look grey, damaged and unattractive, as they are often rather knocked about when caught in trawl nets; but the flesh still seems to remain sound. Delicate white moist rather soft flesh of average flavour; recognisable by a thin yellowish-white strip of fat running along the outer middle of the fillet. Our most abundant fish resource, caught by deep-sea trawlers and used commercially to make fish fingers, fishburgers, fish cakes, surimi (the raw ingredient of “crabsticks”), in fish and chips, etc. Related, smaller hoki-like fishes are called grenadiers.

horse mackerel. See jack mackerel
Iki, Iki snapper xxx

jack mackerel Also called horse mackerel and, in the north, yellowtail. Two very similar species of ‘long’ small rather plump fish. Blue or greenish brown above; silvery white below, with a distinct row of large sharpish scales running along the middle of the body. Not a true mackerel, but a member of the scad family, related to trevally. Medium fat, dark, rather firm flesh which whitens when cooked. Excellent smoked or grilled; highly under-rated -- often available dirt cheap, but they deteriorate in quality rapidly if not well cared for, so check freshness before buying.


Japanese gurnard see spotted gurnard
Jap pack xxx
Jelly fish. See skate.
Jim Beam see Ray’s bream
Jock Stuart. See sea perch
john dory Peculiar-looking thin ‘round’ fish with large head and trailing dorsal fins. Brownish with a dark spot in the middle of the side. Highly regarded because it yields boneless fillets of firm white flesh, but in my view over-rated. With the skin on, it holds together well when cubed therefore is useful for fish stews.
kahawai Superficially rather salmon-like, greenish to dark blue above and silvery or white below. Small kahawai, less than about 30 cm, have a number of brown spots and are sometimes called kopapa. The flesh of kahawai is dark, rather reddish in colour (especially the band along the outer middle of the fillet), medium to coarse in texture, with a comparatively strong flavour. In Australia, where this fish is known as salmon or Australian salmon, this fish is regarded highly when canned, but in NZ it is under-rated, indeed often regarded with contempt, when in fact is suitable for all cooking methods. Needs to be chilled quickly when caught or deteriorates quickly. Often can be bought very cheaply; highly recommended. Try it and thereafter you will be able to smile patronisingly at the fools who, having never tried it themselves, tell you it is “dry” and “flavourless”.

kina. Xxxxx

kingfish A big strong fish, very popular with sport anglers but not very common in the shops. Grows to 2 m and 60 kg, blueish green above and silvery below. Dark, medium fat, excellent for grilling, baking and frying, and for sashimi. Recommended. Small kingfish are sometimes called yellowtail but this name is used for jack mackerel too. Not to be confused with southern kingfish.

kingklip South African name for ling.

koheru xxx

kokopu Adults of certain kinds of fish which are more familiar, when small, as whitebait.

kopapa see kahawai
lamprey xxx
leatherjacket. See creamfish

lemon fish Usually rig (q.v.) or school shark (q.v.), but also applied to the filleted and skinned flesh of other dogfish and sharks. Somewhat variable in quality depending on the type and size of the fish it came from. Lemon fish is firm, white, low in fat and has a good flavour though sometimes it has an ammonia taint, which can be removed by briefly soaking in water with vinegar or lemon juice added. Being dependably free of bones, lemon fish is much used in the fish-and-chip trade.

lemon sole xxx

ling A large (to 20 kg) eel-like fish with a marbled pink skin. Often sold in “blocks” -- sections of the body with skin still on -- or as smoked fillets. Very firm white flesh, low in fat and splendid smoked, baked or in a sauce. Recommended.

lobster see crayfish
mackerel. See blue mackerel, jack mackerel.
mangrove fish see parore
maomao See blue maomao and pink maomao.

Maori chief A mainly southern, medium-sized dark grey or greenish fish with a large flat head and an elaborate pattern on the head vaguely reminiscent of a tattoo. Good eating with firm, slightly coarse flakes, but sometimes worm-infested. Also known as black cod. This name is also used for marblefish.

marlin A group of very large fishes distinguished by the spiky prolongation of the snout. Not to be confused with swordfish, though the flesh is very similar. The commonest species is striped marlin; black and blue marlin are more scarce and grow larger. Marlin flesh is orange, turning white as it cooks, and is firm, succulent and delicious. Suitable for all cooking methods but best grilled or smoked.

moki. See Blue moki
moonfish xxx

monkfish Also known as stargazer, bulldog, churchill and boof or boof-head. A rather ugly but highly esteemed fish with very firm white flesh. Sometimes said to resemble crayfish, which it does only in texture -- it does not flake easily. For this reason it has even been used for fake scallops! The name monkfish is applied in Europe to members of the anglerfish family but these are only superficially similar. The spotted stargazer is a smaller relative that lives in shallow water and is also very good eating.

morwong Australian name for tarakihi

mullet. See grey mullet, also yellow-eyed mullet

mussels Two types: green-lipped and blue. Farmed ones are green-lipped mussels, also found growing on rocks around or below low-tide mark. Blue mussels, which are dark blue in colour, grow on the tidal shore and are smaller, royal blue to almost black in colour, and more common in the south. It is a myth that blue mussels are inferior; if anything they are better. The main factor affecting mussel quality is whether they have recently spawned and lost condition.

northern conger see conger eel

northern kingfish. See kingfish

northern spikey dogfish xxx

octopus The coastal octopus, living under rocks in coastal waters, is unmistakeable. After skinning it can be cooked like squid (q.v.), which it resembles, though it is tougher. Good for marinating in lemon juice. "Baby" octopus are imported from Australia, where they are a by-catch in the prawn fishery; succulent little morsels wonderful for paella or for frying.

oilfish xxx

orange roughy A medium-sized deep-sea fish which, since its discovery by deep-sea trawlers in the 1970s has gone from being a museum piece to one of our most important commercial fishes. A big-headed ‘round’ scarlet fish which fades after death to a greyish-orange colour. Only seen in the shops as fillets, which are pearly white, medium texture with large flakes. The reasons for its great popularity include the fact that it doesn’t really have a very ‘fishy’ flavour, and it keeps well, often being thawed and re-frozen during processing without much loss of quality. In my view it is a bit overrated. Exported as deep-sea perch.

opah see moonfish

oreo dory Two species, black and smooth oreo. Both are deep-sea ‘round’ grey fish with large dark eyes and dense white flesh that holds together well when cooked. Always seen in the shops as rather small, skinned fillets.

oyster Three kinds. Beginning with the best, we have dredge oysters which are caught in coastal waters, mainly in Foveaux Strait (the famous Bluff oysters) and off Nelson. No words of praise are adequate for these. The smaller oysters growing on the shore in the north are (native) rock oysters -- also very good, but not generally on sale. The third type are Pacific oysters, large frilly-edged shellfish grown on oyster farms in the north and now found widely on shores throughout New Zealand, having first appeared here as recently as the 1970s. New Zealanders are spoiled by Bluff oysters, which set the standard by which Pacific oysters are judged. This is to say the least an unequal contest: Pacific oysters are somewhat slimy in texture and less tasty, but still good.

Pacific mackerel or Pacific blue mackerel. See blue mackerel.

Packhorse rock lobster see crayfish

paddle crabs. Greyish-shelled crabs that live off sandy beaches and grow to 8 cm across the shell. Only buy them if they are still alive. The back pair of legs are flat “paddles” used to swim backwards. Excellent sweet white flesh, even better than crayfish; rather hard to get at but worth the effort. Highly recommended.

parore Also called black snapper, blackfish, mangrove fish, and (in Australia) luderick A ‘round’ fish found in the north, dark brown with vertical bands; up to 3 kg. feeds mainly on seaweed. A somewhat controversial fish: some people esteem it and others despise it. Probably the quality varies with condition of individual fish, what they have recently been eating, and how they were prepared. The general view is that a parore in good condition, filleted and skinned soon after being caught, yields excellent firm white flesh suitable for baking, frying, and making fish cakes.
parrotfish see wrasse

paua Two species of limpet-shaped shellfish related to snails, common subtidally in rocky places. In some places they can still be found easily at low tide. Closely related to abalone (North America and Australia) and ormer (UK) and very highly regarded the world over -- a couple of years ago paua was worth $128/kg on export markets. Black or “ordinary” paua grow to 16 cm and the shells have the famous iridescent green/blue colour inside and are usually encrusted with marine life on the outside. The meat is white or pale greenish grey under the black skin, and delicious fried. Yellow-footed paua grows to about 10 cm and the meat is yellowish in colour, perhaps not as good eating. The shell is silvery inside and not encrusted.

perch An ill-defined name which includes sea perch xxx as well as thr true perch, a freshwater fish common in some NZ lakes and rivers and good eating.

pigfish see southern pigfish, red pigfish

pilchard Same as sardine, though the New Zealand type is a different species, usually larger than the ones bought in tins. Pilchards make excellent bait and are usually sold for this purpose, at such a high price few people would buy them to eat. Excellent canned or bottled -- the flesh is dark, rich and oily.

pink maomao Not often seen on sale, but a reasonably common schooling fish over rocky reefs in the north. A ‘round’ pink fish usually less than 1 kg, related to groper. Good quality white fillets.

pioke see rig
piper. See garfish

pipi This Maori name is widely used for all kinds of burrowing bivalve shellfish or clams. The type most commonly called pipi grows to 7 cm long, burrowing in clean sand of sheltered harbours and bays, and in the outer reaches of estuaries, usually just above low tide mark. It is roughly oval in shape and varies greatly in colour and pattern, but can always be recognised by the thin skin-like strip around the edge of the shell and the oval shape without any straight edges. The meat is tasty but the main part, the foot or “tongue”, is usually rather tough. See also cockle, tuatua and toheroa

pomfret see Ray’s bream

porae xxx Not to be confused with parore.

Poutassou/putassu see blue whiting

prawn Small transparent prawns occur in rock pools and are tasty raw or cooked if you can be bothered. Otherwise you must buy imported prawns, usually from Australia. See also scampi

quinnat salmon see salmon
rat tail, rat fish see grenadier
ray see stingray, eagleray, skate

Ray's bream Also called Jim Beams. A type of pomfret -- fish which are much esteemed in other countries -- but not well known here. A ‘round’ silvery grey fish, silvery on the sides and under; narrow in cross-section with a big eye and soft fins. To 3 kg and 60 cm long. Very firm, rich flesh -- excellent eating, suitable for all cooking methods; highly recommended.

red bait xxx Dark, rich flesh, good smoked.

red cod Also cod, Akaroa cod. Soft white moist low-fat flesh, tends to fall apart easily. Much used for fish cakes, fish fingers and fish and chips. Cheap.

red crayfish see crayfish
redfish see red snapper
red gurnard. See gurnard
red mullet xxx Also called goatfish.
red pigfish see wrasse
red snapper xxx
ribaldo see deep-sea cod

rig A dogfish with beautiful bright blue spots and no spines in its dorsal fins (thi distinguishes it from the inferior spiney or spikey dogfish). Very good, firm, tasty flesh; much used for fish and chips, and heavily overfished commercially in the past. It also has rather a lot of alternative names including spotted smooth-hound, smooth-hound dogfish, spotted dogfish, doggie (sometimes spelt “dogi”), pioke and deep-sea bream. It is also one of the various fish sold as lemon fish (q.v.).

River flounder. See flounder.
rock crab xxx
rock lobster see crayfish
roughy see orange roughy.

rubyfish. A small slender silvery-red fish occasionally offered for sale. Firm rather dark flesh, very good smoked.

rudderfish 139xxx
saiulfish xxx

salmon The main species here is quinnat salmon, also called spring, chinook or king salmon in its native environment of the Pacific coast of north America. A large fish that occurs wild around the South Island and is widely farmed. Closely related to rainbow trout. Dense firm flesh, high in fat, suitable for all cooking methods but particularly good smoked or grilled. Atlantic salmon, similar in quality, is also farmed in NZ and Australia.

sardine See pilchard
saury xxx
scallop (common/Queen)

scampi Small lobster-like crustaceans (body length to 20 cm) with long thin claws and very long antennae. Pinkish white with reddish bands; caught in very deep water and not very abundant. Absolutely delicious dense white flesh in the tail. Closely related animals in other countries are called Norway lobsters or Dublin Bay prawns.

scarpee See sea perch
schnapper. A common misspelling of snapper (q.v.)
school shark. See lemon fish

scorpion fish see red scorpionfish. Scorpion fish is also the name of a family of fishes including the sea perch.

sea cucumber xxx

sea perch A big-headed, spiny fish of variable red to orange colour, living in a wide range of depths around New Zealand. Belongs to the scorpionfish family but is not poisonous and in fact good eating. Often sold as small firm white fillets suitable for all cooking methods. Known by numerous other names eg. scarpee, Jock Stuart, highlander; and fishermen in Northland call then flingers because they “fling” them straight back over the side!

sea urchin see kina

shark Most species of sharks are sometimes sold for food when they are caught, as long as they are not so large and old that the flesh is likely to be coarse or high in mercury. The most common is school shark (see lemon fish), and others include mako and thresher (both of which have excellent reddish flesh), blue shark, hammerhead, bronze-whaler, and a number of more obscure types.

shellfish Includes molluscs (paua, cockles, clams, mussels, scallops, pipis, tuatuas, octopus and squid), crustaceans (rock crabs, paddle crabs, rock lobster or crayfish, scampi) and echinoderms (kina or sea urchins).

silverside xxx

silver trumpeter. See elephant fish
silvery see smelt

skate Two types, rough and smooth skate. These kite-shaped fish are related to sharks and stingrays, and like all members of the group do not have hard bones. Skinned ‘wings’ are very moist, delicate, white flesh suitable for grilling, frying and baking. Some people don’t like the flavour, but others rate it very highly, and it is usually quite cheap. Worth trying. There is a network of cartilaginous strands in the middle of each portion but these are not a hassle to deal with. Also called jelly fish.

skipjack tuna xxx
skippy see skipjack tuna

slut Vulgar and thankfully archaic commercial fisherman’s term for a female crayfish carrying external eggs, which he (and I say he advisedly) is therefore obliged to throw back.

smelt a very small silvery, partly transparent fish often caught in whitebait nets. Found in the sea, in rivers and in some lakes. Can be dried or salted; perfectly edible but not very tasty.

smooth-hound dogfish see rig

snapper When anyone goes fishing in the North Island, and in parts of the South Island, this is probably the fish they are most hoping to catch. A beautiful-looking silvery ‘round’ fish with a large head, blue spots and flushed with red and gold. White to grey flesh, medium texture, suitable for all cooking methods; excellent also for sashimi and marinated fish dishes. Few parts of a snapper should ever be discarded: the head is excellent for fish soup and stock; the ‘wings’ are superb fried and should never be thrown away when filleting the fish; even the liver is a delectable morsel. See also red snapper

snoek see barracouta

sole. Two kinds of flatfish, basically similar to flounders, with rather rough scales. Lemon sole, the better of the two, is a dark grey-brown oval fish with a rather pointed head; the New Zealand sole (also called the English sole or common sole) is greenish-grey and oval with a round head. Both yield delicate white fillets, suitable for frying and much used in fish-and-chip trade. Both fish are also sometimes sold whole.

southern blue whiting see blue whiting
southern hake. See gemfish.
southern kingfish. See gemfish.
spider crab xxx
spotted gurnard xxx
spotty. See wrasses

squid A type of shellfish related to octopuses and cuttlefishes, which swims in open waters and is excellent eating. Usually bought as “squid tubes”, the front part of the animal which is shaped like a hollow cone, skinned and ready to cut up (or stuff) and cook. For most people buying squid tubes is the best option and well worth the extra cost, as preparing whole squid is time-consuming and messy. However, whole squid are cheap and come with the ink sac, an essential, very tasty ingredient in certain sauces (eg. see p. 00 and 00). The tentacles are also good eating, and trimmings and guts can be used in stock or for fishing bait. Skinning squid is the hardest part of preparation, and best done after blanching or parboiling, though this is not permitted in all recipes.

stargazer. See monkfish

stingray A much-maligned fish similar to the skate; it feeds on shellfish and is quite unaggressive, even shy. However, it has a very sharp, serrated spine (sometimes two spines) set in the base of its tail, which makes it potentially dangerous. People have been badly injured after accidentally diving or stepping on top of one that is lying on the bottom. The tail is also covered with small spines that can injure if the ray lashes about when caught on a line. Distinguish it from the skate (grey, without a barb on the tail) and the eagleray (with a blue pattern on the back and small spine). Stingrays grow to a large size, more than 2 metres long, are dark grey above and white or mottled underneath, and may reach more than 100 kg in weight. There are two similar species, long- and short-tailed. The wings contain good quality, boneless flesh of similar composition to that of the skate (q.v.) but denser. Small ones are best; well worth trying.

sunfish xxx
swimming crab xxx
swimming crabs See paddle crabs

swordfish see broadbill. Marlin are also sometimes erroneously called by this name.

tarakihi xxx

throats An ill-defined term for certain offcuts; usually applied to the wings (q.v.) of a groper
To facilitate description I have classified fish shapes into three basic types: (pic of each)

toheroa

trevalla Misspelling of trevally (q.v.); also deep-sea trevalla is the Tasmanian name for bluenose (q.v.)

trevally A northern fish
trout

trumpeter Not to be confused with silver trumpeter, an unrelated fish.

tuatua xxx
tuna xxx

turbot Also called brill. A round dark-mottled flatfish with apricot-coloured flesh; more common in the south. Probably the best flatfish of all -- and the largest, reaching nearly a metre long. Often used for fish and chips. Recommended.

urchin see kina

warehou Three types -- blue, silver and white warehou -- which are all excellent and under-rated. Blue warehou is the largest and by far the most common, and not without good reason is it sometimes nicknamed “southern snapper”. Blue warehou is a rather slender round-headed fish, plump and silvery blue with a dark patch behind the head. The rather pink flesh whitens and firms on cooking; medium fat content. Warehou are mainly caught in the south, moderately priced and considerably under-rated. The heads are excellent for soup. Blue warehou is also called common warehou and sometimes, inappropriately, trevally. Silver warehou is smaller, greyer, spotted, and is similar but perhaps has a higher fat content. White warehou is paler still in colour, as the name suggests, and probably not distinguished as such when offered for sale. All the warehous are very highly recommended.

weever see blue cod
whipray see eagleray
whiptail see hoki
whitebait You should be so rich.

whiting. See southern blue whiting, also hoki.

wings Term used for the chest and throat area of a fish, i.e. the lower part of the body immediately behind the head, which has the pectoral fins attached (these are the fish’s equivalent of arms.) Because it is bony, the wing area is usually left attached to the head when a fillet is taken off a whole fish, or it is trimmed off the fillet afterwards. But the wings of the large or better-quality fish are too good to waste, and are often sold as a cheap cut. They also normally have skin and any scales attached too. But the wing meat is a particularly firm and tasty portion, and the bones are mostly large and flat and not as difficult to deal with as pin bones. Groper and snapper wings are particularly good. ‘Wings’ also refers to the parts of skate (q.v.) that are eaten, though these are quite different and unbony.

witch see flounders

wrasses Also called parrotfishes; a large family which includes the spotty, banded parrotfish, scarlet parrotfish, girdled parrotfish, red pigfish and a number of smaller fishes. Most are not usually eaten, but the spotties children proudly bring home from fishing excursions are excellent eating when fried after removing the head, guts and scales, though care is needed with the bones. If you can be bothered, spotty fillets are excellent soused or marinated. Spotties need to be scaled, which is much easier to do when they are freshly caught. All wrasses are good smoked, but otherwise most are rather dull and lacking in flavour.

yellow-belly flounder. See flounder.
yellow-eyed mullet xxx
yellowtail. See jack mackerel, kingfish.

Feedback? Comments? Any questions: info@heritagefoods.co.nz